Friday, January 9, 2009
New project scrubbed and ready to try
After watching Kevin do his new line, I got the FA bug in me. Though my trip is coming to end, I was hoping to find something new to do. I had a couple ideas of things that I had looked at in the past. There are plenty of mediocre new problems to be done around the Buttermilks, but I wanted to do something really cool. My first objective was to check out the south east face of the Drifter boulder. I had looked at this wall in the past and deemed it not worthy. I knew however that our perceptions change over time and I was hoping to see something I didn't see before. I set a rope on the top of the boulder and rapped down the face. I first rapped the center of the wall which is quite tall. The previous day I had seen some holds that could constitute a line. Upon closer inspection, I realized that many of the holds were not solid. There could be something there, but I wasn't psyched on the quality of the rock - especially because it's high off the deck. Next I moved to the right a little and looked at another set of holds. Here the holds were slightly better and it looked like something was feasible. The crux would be very high though and would involve a long cross though off of a tiny crimp. I was getting a bit psyched on this line, but also a little concerned that it might take more than the time I have left to get solid enough on the move to try it without a rope. Finally I moved my rope to the right side of the wall. The start of al of the problems would likely have to be here because the lower part of the wall is pretty blank to the left. I saw an obvious decent crimp about 6 ft below the lip and wondered if there would be a way to get to the lip from this hold. At first I didn't find any holds and then I saw an obvious flake that looked solid. The move would be big to get to it, but it looked like the kind of hold you could stick after doing a big move. I also noticed that the topout looked a little worse in this section though there still seemed to be enough holds to keep it from being completely desperate. After cleaning the line more, I found a few more small holds that could help and came up with a feasible sequence. All in all, it's a really cool line - pretty much straight up, decent holds, interesting looking moves, and all on a tall cool looking face. The only downside is that the rock isn't the perfect bishop patina. Still the rock quality is pretty good. I'm really psyched to try it tomorrow. Probably will work the end moves on a rope to come up with to good sequence and then go for it from the ground. Hopefully I'll have pictures of the send up tomorrow.