Thursday, January 15, 2009

Back in Boulder

After a marathon drive (20 hours driving in 24 hours) I just made it back to Boulder in time for a meeting I needed to attend. The Bishop trip was amazing! I got to climb so many of the problems I was psyched on. Of course I left a few behind for next trip - especially the project I cleaned which is in the picture above. The picture doesn't really do it justice though - it is taller than it looks.

I climbed on Monday before leaving but didn't try the project. Early in the morning, I went back up to the Ninth, a problem I established in 2005, to film it with Brett Lowell and Cooper Roberts. They are filming for the new movie "Progression" which is supposed to come out this coming fall. They are doing a section on Bishop with Kevin doing some of the big lines including his new one. They may use the footage of the Ninth to help set the scene. After climbing up there, I went to the main area and gave some burns on the Buttermilker. My first go was really good but I didn't quite hold the swing when I took my toe hook out. The next few goes were worse. Then I tried some different beta and found a way to kneebar the last move. This allowed me to use an easier sequence for removing the toe hook. I gave it a few more tries and then just barely managed to send it. It was pretty cool to do it and I had to try hard because things weren't perfect. I only didn the problem from the underclings which goes at V12 - I'll perhaps have to try the V13 sit start next time even though it doesn't really add any hard or interesting moves. Below is a photo of my brother trying the Buttermilker earlier in the trip. To end the day, I tried Thunderbird V11 and did it on my second try. I had tried it in the past but usually only half-heartedly because I was scared of splitting a tip. This time, I used no tape and really dug into the crimp. I had to pull hard but it all worked out. The low start to this one, Direction, will also have to wait for the next trip.

My drive back was interesting - especially the section between Tonapah and Ely. I thought I had plenty of gas, but was on empty when I saw the sign that read "51 miles to Ely". I just managed to make it to Ely and literally rolled into the gas station after the car died. Lucky!!! The rest of the drive was long and uneventful. Listening to "Hard Times" by Charles Dickens helped pass the time a bit.

Now I'm in Boulder trying to get back into the groove of school. The weather is looking good though for the next few days so I'm hoping to get outside to climb. I'm psyched to try Suspension of Disbelief in Eldo. I also want to start roaming around scouting potential trad projects.


  1. Hello,
    it's a good news.... your trip looks great...
    a tout

  2. I believe that highway you almost ran out of gas on is officially called "the loneliest highway in America." Becoming stranded there would be like living the start of a Stephen King novel.

  3. Hey, I know that guy! Nice sends! I wish I'd been there. I was bummed I didn't get down to see you guys. The epic snowstorm (not really) and the inability of people in the PNW to deal with snow on the roads (really) I wasn't able to get south. If you guys go back next month I might try to sneak down and pretend I know how to boulder.


  4. AAh! I hate that stretch of road! Driving it at night is like waiting for a horror movie to happen to you! Though I did see a big elk right off the road, that was cool...but still scary as it could've easily destroyed our Prius and our skulls!