Hueco 2.0 (Part II)

Here's the second part of my Hueco 2.0 series sponsored by La Sportiva.

In other news, I competed in the ABS Bouldering Nationals the week before last and fared pretty well. I got 13th in the qualifiers and 19th in the semi's (so a final result of 19th place). I made a few mistakes that I shouldn't have, but that's how it goes for everyone. Nevertheless, the competition was a ton of fun and training for it got me strong (and also minorly tweaked in the shoulder. I'll be uploading a post about the comp and some video of me on the problems.

Better Quality Hueco Video

So there was a bit of a problem with the Hueco video on youTube. The file was first encoded by vimeo and then downloaded and uploaded to youTube where it was compressed again resulting in a lot of digital noise.

Here is the vimeo version which is a lot more pleasurable to watch:

Hueco 2.0 (3 part video series)

So I just uploaded the first video of a 3 part series that's being run on Sportiva LIVE. Check out these two amazing new problems on West Mountain.

Here's the blurb I wrote about it:

It's been almost 8 years since my guidebook for Hueco Tanks was released and a lot has happened since then. Back when the book came out, we were still riding the Fred Nicole years, and there was only a small amount of development going on in the park. Since then, guiding has increased, more people have found ways to make the system work for them, and lots of new problems have gone up. Even more surprising, many of these new classics have the same level of quality of the tried and true oldies. So it's time for a new edition of the guide.

I've been in and out of Hueco this season documenting lots of newly established lines and making preparations for the new edition which will hopefully be available sometime this Fall. One of the nice benefits of this work is that I've been getting to repeat a lot of these new classics and even put up a few of my own as I roam the park seeing new areas. I thought as a little teaser to the book, I'd release three videos through La Sportiva that show some of these great new lines. I'm planning to show problems that range in difficulty too because there are new classics at all grades.

This video is the first of the trio and has footage of two problems I established over New Years. Two great lines that I still find it hard to believe hadn't been done. Hope you enjoy and stay tuned for the next two videos which will be out soon.

Oh yeah, and if you have any new problems you've done and want to alert me about, send an email with problem name, description, grade, how to find, etc. to huecoguide@gmail.com.

Needles Video Finally (Sort of)

So I finished the edit of the footage I got of me climbing Pyromania this summer in the Needles. The video is now up on Deadpoint Magazine (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/). It's in the stash section though so you have to pay the nominal $12 fee to have yearlong access to great videos--definitely worth it. Check it out if you are a DPM Stash subscriber.

Wrap up of East Coast trip

I had some great slideshows and also got some good climbing in at the New River Gorge. Right now it's back to the grind of research.

Check out the blog post I wrote for Mountain Hardwear Sessions blog. There's also a cool video by Pat Goodman that shows some of the projects we were climbing on in the New.

Hardwear Blog

Tour Underway Tomorrow

I'm excited to start my slideshow tour tomorrow. I have 8 shows booked and it should be a great time. The venues are a mix of college campuses and climbing gyms. Unfortunately, some colleges restrict the audience to just students.

Here are the shows that are definitely open everyone. You should come if you are in the vicinity. The show is going to be awesome and there will be a chance to win lots of great gear from my sponsors as well (see list below)

Friday 9/30 Metrorock (Everett) -- 7pm
Saturday 10/1 University of Maine, Orono -- 8pm, 101 Neville Hall
Monday 10/3 Carabiners Climbing Gym, Fairfield, CT -- 8pm

I'm giving also giving shows at Middlebury College, Williams College, Phillips Academy Andover, Colby College, and Virginia Tech.

Mountain Hardwear, La Sportiva, and Metolius hooked me big time with some awesome giveaways. Here's a rough compilation of what you all will have the chance to win! These guys are awesome for supporting the climbing community --- support them with your business when you get the chance.

Mountain Hardwear packs, pairs of La Sportiva climbing shoes, Hardwear Ts, Sportiva trucker caps, Hardwear beanies, Metolius chalk bags, Metolius M16 bouldering brushes, tons of Metolius chalk, Hueco Tanks guidebooks, and Yosemite Bouldering Guidebooks

New England Slideshow Tour

I'm putting together a slideshow tour through New England for the end of September and beginning of October. I already have a few venues lined up but I have some open slots in the schedule too. I'm focusing on doing shows at colleges but am open to any location. If you're interested in hosting a show or know someone who might be, shoot me an email at the address on the poster below. For places with climbing facilities, I'm also offering to do a bouldering clinic. I'm psyched to head back to New England for a bit and cruise through my original stomping grounds. Hopefully I can motivate a few climbers along the way.


Bouldering Above Gear: A Synthesis of Distant Disciplines
by Matt Wilder

Through this multimedia show I'll try to figure out why I tend to find myself far above gear with hard moves between me and safety --- a question I ask myself often. I'll begin by tracking my history as a climber following my split identity as a boulderer and a trad climber with some classic photos from my early days. The bulk of the show will highlight classic climbs and boulder problems I've established, repeated, or failed on in the past. The show will culminate with a personal narrative of my experience establishing two new 5.14R trad routes in the Front Range, Viceroy and Cheating Reality, accompanied by video footage and photo sequences. I'll also explore my quest for the ultimate trad route that combines runout 5.13 climbing with a fairly well protected V13 or harder boulder problem.