Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Another trip concluded

8 hours of driving later, I'm back in Boulder once again making the context shift between climbing and school. And of course catching up on the other random things that need to be done but are never done during a climbing trip.

The trip to Joe's was amazing. I couldn't have really asked for more success. The weather was a bit on the cold side but I managed to climb most of the problems I wanted to climb. It was so great to do all of these classics - the rock in Joe's is very unique and creates near perfect problems.

Two days ago was my last full day. After warming up, I did a fun highball called Baraka V9 on my first try. Then I hung out and watched my girlfriend Sandy climb a cool V6 she had tried previously. Next it was Noah's time to send and he came super close to doing Beyond Life. He fell going for the lip. He's still got another week of climbing there so I'm sure he'll do it.

Baraka V9

At the end of the day I went to try a problem I had seen at the new 8-mile area. It didn't look like it had been done, but you never can be sure. It's near the top of the hill just right of a striking arete that had just been climbed or chalked up on rappel at least. The problem starts in two crimpy pockets and moves up to two worse holds. Then you have you make a big move to a decent edge. From there you climb a 4 star V0 to the high top out. It was super cold when I was trying it and I had to run up and down the hill to stay warm. I did the problem after a few attempts from the start. I'm thinking it's probably V11. I haven't decided on a name yet but two possibilities are Freestyle and White Rabbit following the 8-mile theme. You all should suggest some names and then maybe I'll set up a voting gadget. If anyone knows if this problem has already been done, definitely let me know. Here's a photo of me sticking the crux move.

Yesterday I climbed a bit but didn't feel great and stopped early to get going on the drive. Here's some video of my flash of Beyond Life a few days ago. I have a few more videos that I'll try to upload in the next few days.

Beyond Life from Matt Wilder on Vimeo.


  1. Matt,

    So cool you did this - when I did it a year or two ago I had the same thought. Looked like someone could have done it, but maybe not.

    I decided to call it Big Crimpin' for my own ego as I drove home, but I think others may have come even before I.

    Note: I sent in just my boxers cause it was so hot and it was the only thing in the shade!

    Such a cool problem!!!

    I'm glad to hear you thought it was 11 cause I was sandbagging the hell out of it at 9 I thought - also for my ego.

    Lets say 10 and put the name up to vote!


  2. Cool Lee. Thanks for filling me in. Did you climb the arete next to it or do you know if anyone else has?

    V9 is a super sandbag. I thought it was solid at V11 compared to other V11s in Joe's though some of those seemed soft. Could be 10 but would be stout for sure. It's really just one hard move though so it's hard to grade accurately.

    We'll see if there are some other good recommendations for names and then put it to vote.

    Anyone else do this problem?

  3. No, I didn't do the arete - but on the opposite corner of the boulder there would be a cool tall arete (slabby/not slabby) that I wanted to do too.

    There is a chance my fingers were strong that day, and that I killed them sending that problem, cause after I did it, I went down the hill to damage a pully on a different problem - haha - I'll take 11 points if you insist, cause other than another suuuuweeet problem i might have put up above no additives, that was the end of my trip.

    I can provide directions to the other one - it was a rad v7(or so) with a kinda scary move on ammmazing joe's black rock.