Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Beginning my Sojourn in the New

So I arrived in Fayetteville, WV several days ago and will be climbing in the New River Gorge for the next month and a half. I'm super excited to be here and have some big plans. At the top of the list is this crazy trad project I've tried a few times in the past 3 years. I've never dedicated a long stretch of time to this line though so now is my chance.

The project climbs a beautiful slightly overhanging face to a horizontal crack with good gear. Then there's an extremely hard boulder problem that leads to easier 5.12 climbing above. The route is 100% gear and extremely aesthetic. Two days ago I got back on it and gave a few burns. It's still very much up in the air as to whether or not the boulder problem goes, but I think it's feasible. The climbing up to the crux is probably 13b or c with reasonable protection. The crux seems to be at least V12 but perhaps harder. If I can put this all together, it'll surely be one of the hardest gear routes out there.

Psyched to be out here and to have such a worthy project to devote my time to. I'm also excited to try to repeat some of the new classics the locals have been establishing and perhaps scope some other (hopefully slightly easier) projects to do while I'm here.

Here's a photo from the ground of my project. The route climbs the two gold streaks to the bulge above. Then it navigates mostly straight up through a series of steep bulges with perfect positive holds. Overall, the route probably is about 80ft high and overhangs about 30ft. I've dubbed the project the "Rapunzel Project" as you have to climb the golden locks of hair to get the prize.


I was out here for a few days a year and a half ago and put a little time into the route then. Check out this short video Pat Goodman put together of that trip which includes a few clips of me working the lower face on TR.


New River Gorge Projects from Pat Goodman on Vimeo.

Stay tuned for progress as I begin working on this more. Also wish me good luck in having the weather cooperate.

1 comment:

  1. Trekking in Nepal and tours operative takes you that further way to guarantee you has an unforgettable adventure that you have been dream of. Benefit, of course there is the Acute Trek Pvt. Ltd. part of choice. We have your choose of Treks Himalaya for 3 days or 30 or more days it depending of your timetable, sleep under lodges or tent. We offer you with the best progressive Nepal Holiday information and itinerary leading focused and modified as per your requirements of Nepal Trekking. It is significant to memorize, though, it necessitate an enough level of physical homework for Nepal tour and must remembers that there is also a psychosomatic assurance in walking in mountains. Trekking in Himalaya is an attempt to encourage Nepal to the exterior world while striving to defend an aged tradition as well as conserve the surroundings for generation to come for Hiking in Nepal. Annapurna Trekking Everest Trekking Langtang Trekking Holiday Hiking in Nepal Holiday Hiking Hiking Holiday Peak Climbing in Nepal Helicopter Tour in Nepal Everest Base Camp Trek Annapurna Base Camp Trek Upper Mustang Trekking

    ReplyDelete