Friday, March 26, 2010

Joe's Update #2

Past two days have been great. Today is another rest day -- definitely needed after climbing my first 4 out of 5 days. Here's a quick run down of the past two days. The first day, after warming up, I headed above the right sign area and checked out some awesome problems. First was Sunshine Daydream V6 which had some fun moves. My girlfriend Sandy sent this in a few tries which was rad. Next Justin, Noah and I worked out the moves on Dance With the Devil V7. This problem is one of the best problems in Joe's, scary but totally rad. I did it after a few attempts figuring out the top. After this I started working on Kill List, the V12 to the right that shares a similar finish. I worked out all the moves and then sent my first full try. Probably took about 10 tries in total. Kill List is also a great problem well worth the hike. With the light fading, we hiked farther up the hill and found Godsend V9. This problem is quite uncharacteristic for the area with big slopers. I flashed the problem, Justin and Noah both dispatched quickly and we made it down the hill just as it got fully dark.

Yesterday I warmed up climbing G207 V7 (which Sandy is close on) and then worked on Masterpiece V13 in the afternoon. I figured out all the beta, but was having trouble with a foot switch at the beginning of the problem. Eventually I figured out some micro beta to make the foot switch easier but at this point was too fatigued to do the full sequence. I'm really excited to go back to it tomorrow and am confident that it'll go smoothly. This problem is probably my favorite of the trip so far. Such an impressive boulder and location. On top of that the holds are amazing and the movement is really fun. I can't wait to climb it in its entirety. Fun!

Here's a video I put together of Kill List. It doesn't have the best angles, but shows the problem a bit. This is pieced together from a few tries (hence the inconsistency in the spotter's attire). We got more angles and the problem will probably go into Try Harder. For now, my goal was to just get some footage out there so people could see the problem and get psyched for it. Get up there and do it -- it's rad.

Kill List V12, Joe's Valley from Matt Wilder on Vimeo.

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