Thursday, February 26, 2009

Oh so close

Got back on Terre de Sienne this morning and came even closer. Here's footage of my attempt. If I had a second longer before my left foot popped, I might have sent. Anyway I've still got one more day to get it done. It looks like Saturday might be a bit cooler too - today was low 80s (though the strong breeze helped things some). Below is a photo from my close attempt the previous day I stuck the move and fell when my right hand blew off the starting crimp. I like how the only thing connecting me to the wall is the horrible crux crimp. It's as if I'm trying to hold the swing even though everything else has come off the wall. Anyone who is familiar with this hold knows how absurd that would be. At least I was trying hard.

warning: may contain bad language

I tried Algerita a bit after Terre and figured out some more beta. Then I did El Techo de los Tres B which has gotten easier since a hold got bigger. I wasn't really expecting to do it but gave a try from the start anyway and everything worked out. It seems like it is now V12 or V11. Not sure. I guess some people have suggested V11 and I could definitely see that. It is probably more classic now as well.


  1. There is no 'may contain bad language' about it ... Fire-Truck!

    Close dude ... I will be wishing for cold and windy sending conditions tomorrow ...

  2. And? No news is good news?

    If it's any consolidation I got a PB on my two laps of Christchurch meadow -

    The same course that Roger Bannister used to train to break the 4 minute mile :)

  3. hi matt, you say that el techo is probably more classic now, after the break. could you elaborate what you mean by that? thanks.

  4. Before the break, the crux of El Techo involved crimping a small hold and doing some serious body tension pushing on a small foothold. On many attempts, my foot would just pop off the hold. The body position was a little bit tweaky too. Also, the hard section was a bit inconsistent with the difficulty of the rest of the problem. Now that the crimp is better, all of these negative issues are no longer present. So in that way, it seems like a better problem. Of course some of the appeal of a problem is its difficulty and now this problem is not as difficult. Nevertheless, the climbing is much more fluid and enjoyable. It still has the downside of being a little reachy.

    Does that answer your question?

  5. yes, it does. much thanks for the explanation.